C.1895-1910 Belle Epoque Old-Cut Diamond Scroll Ring in 18K Gold

An extraordinary Art Nouveau diamond ring dating to circa 1900, set with approximately 1.05 carat of old European-cut and smaller old-cut diamonds.

Five principal diamonds appear to float within the ring’s dramatic, elongated composition. A central old European cut of approximately 0.31 carats is joined by two diamonds of approximately 0.16 carats each and two of approximately 0.11 carats each. A further sixteen old-cut diamond accents follow the sculptural curves and continue onto the shoulders, creating sparkle throughout the entire design.

The ring’s fluid S-shaped silhouette is closely associated with the whiplash line, one of the defining elements of Art Nouveau. At the turn of the twentieth century, jewellers began moving away from rigid symmetry and embracing lines inspired by curling stems, waves, feathers and flames. This ring captures that movement in an especially luxurious way: its organic form is drawn almost entirely in diamonds.

The antique diamonds have the beautifully individual character collectors look for in early cuts. Their broader facets produce slower, more substantial flashes of light than modern brilliant cuts, giving the ring a lively sparkle that changes constantly as the hand moves. Cool-toned diamond settings enhance their brightness against the warmth of the 18K yellow-gold shank.

Sculptural, unmistakably antique and wonderfully unconventional, this is a statement diamond ring for someone who wants history without choosing anything predictable.

Details

• Date: circa 1900
• Period: Belle Époque
• Style: Art Nouveau
• Metal: 18K gold
• Diamonds: approximately 1.05 carat total weight
• Principal diamonds: five old European cuts
  • Central diamond  0.31 carats
  • Two medium diamonds 0.16 carats each
  • Two smaller diamonds 0.11 carats each
  • Sixteen smaller accent diamonds
• Ring size: approximately EU 61 / US 9.5
• Internal diameter: approximately 19.5 mm
• Weight: 4.9 grams
• Professionally reworked in Gothenburg in 2004
• Hallmarked

Condition

Very good antique condition, with light wear consistent with age. The ring was professionally reworked in 2004, preserving its striking circa-1900 design for continued wear.

Diamond weights are approximate and have been calculated from measurements taken while the stones remain mounted.